Silk Road Tour

September 22, 2017

Day 1 and 2 Sydney - Guangzhou - Urumqi
Been a year almost to the day since I last boarded for a trip overseas to take some time off work. Have been looking forward to this trip to the Silk Road in China for about 5 months. Boarded CZ326 from Sydney to Guangzhou and what an eventful flight it was. First time I had been on a plane and the plane had to make a detour due to passenger illness. Hopefully the person is fine and has recovered in Brisbane. This delayed the flight for about 3.5 hours. We were stuck on the plane during the whole time.

Arrived in Guangzhou late that evening around 11PM and some of the passengers had missed their connection flights, some had missed their tours as they had left without them. Luckily our tour budgeted sometime and we were still on track but the tour group wanted to have late night supper which finished at 3AM.

Had to take a midday flight from Guangzhou to Urumqi. Arrived at Urumqi, this part of China is known as a trading hub and there are many Arabic speaking countries that do business here and often move their families to China to have a prosperous life. On this plane ride quite a few of them filled up their overhead luggage space with remote control cars.

We landed in Urumqi and it was really time for dinner, and it was the beginning of the experience of the north western food of China. I was fully aware it was not the usual Canton food and a lot of the food was made up of lamb as the favoured red meat source, something I don’t quite like. The pork and beef taste different, the chicken taste different, I’m not sure if this is due to being a picky eater but I didn’t have much of an appetite. The fruit taste different in a positive way than back home which was a positive.

Day 3 Urumqi to Fuyun
So after 48 hours we are finally going to commence our tour but first a quick 1 hour flight out of Urumqi to Fuyun.

We went to Keketuohai National Geopark, here many local farmers still take their animals for walks, whether they be goats, cows and bulls or horses. There is a narrow passage way consisting of two lanes in the Geopark for internal transportation buses. At any random time there can be a stampede (mind you a slow one) of animals walking up or down the passage way. I’m not talking about a group of 20 animals I’m talking maybe 100 cows walking towards the bus. The bus has to give way to the animals which can stall your travels by up to 30mins as my group had experienced.

The park was meant to contain a stone that has only ever been found in this park and has not been extracted anywhere else in the world. Unfortunately this museum was under renovation and not for us to see. Not what I was expecting.. and one could say not a great start to the trip.

Head to Burqin for an evening bite and sleep

Kekesuli Lake, we made a short stop here before going to Keketuohai National Geopark

Day 4 Burqin - Hemu

Wucaitan is meant to be very picturesque though bad luck for our tour group as the day was overcast. IF it is a sunny day the sun casts over the rocks and you get a rainbow like effect showing on the rocks.

I did get pulled up by the local police for flying my Mavic Pro, the guide said I could fly the local law enforcers said no. This basically put an end to me flying the drone as it wasn’t worth losing, and it seemed there was no clear sign to say you could fly or not.

Saw someone offering camel rides on the way from Wucaitan to Hemu Village

After visiting Wucaitan we headed to Hemu Village. Tuwa tribe is present at Hemu village, this is really one of the most naturally beautiful places you can stay on the silk road. This civilisation has tried to minimise the amount of outside modernisation it could. Apart from the home stay cabins and restaurants most of it is still as it would have been 100 years a go. The Kanas lake passes through the village.

We got to stay here over night.

Day 5 Hemu - Jadengyu

Got up early to catch the sunrise at Hemu and we weren't disappointed.

Visiting Xinjian Kanas National Geopark was quite exciting, the most distinct feature of the park was the water, which seemed a pale white with a tinge of green from afar. When I mean afar you can trek up a mountain to reach the Fish Watching Pavilion. It is about an 1100 plus stair climb, and once you reach the top you are rewarded with a spectacular view. It is said that if you observe carefully at the pavilion you may see a monster fish so the tour guide said. No Loch Ness Monster for me to see today.

1100 steps later this impressive view appears

Another view from the FIsh Watching Pavillion

A close up look of the Fish Watching Pavilion on the way down

A look out view in Xinjian Kanas National Geopark

Day 6 Jadengyu - Kanas - Urumqi

We have a two day tour in the Kanas National park, today we take a boat ride and stop at some vantage points at the park. We also were entertained by the local music band playing traditional instruments.

Hmm the water does look different down here than from above at Xinjian Kanas National Geopark

Mountains just as impressive as the water at Xinjian Kanas National Geopark

Lambs milk on offer but the band were going hard singing folk songs at Xinjian Kanas National Geopark

Another impressive view from one of the lookouts at Xinjian Kanas National Geopark

Kanas fly back to Urumqi

Day 7 Urumqi - Turpan

Ok expecting a lot of hot weather the first part of the trip was quite cool and no different to the weather I had left behind me in Sydney. It was a cool 23 degrees Celsius the past few days in the Altay region. Moving to Turpan.. well let me say it was hot.. not only hot, scorching hot the floor temperature at the famous Flaming mountain registered 65 degrees under my feet, but the air temp was about 40 degrees.

Flaming Mountain is all about the folklore story of the Monkey King, kind of like the show I grew up watching called Monkey Magic

The Monkey folklore story along the entry of the Flaming Mountain

I think the tour just goes here to see if you can withstand the heat!!

From this point we went to The Grape Valley, “they” say and I am not sure why is the they but this is apparently the best grape available in the world. Tour guide speak. Mind you the grapes grow in oppressive heat and the water comes from snow capped mountains that manages to find its way through the desert and into The Grape Valley, many raisins to try but no wine to buy!

Farmer picking ripe grapes in Grape Valley

Silk on sale at Grape Valley along the Silk Road

Following this we made our way to see the Karez system, water wells along the Silk Road made by the Persians.

Karez system.. yep that's water in a very dark tunnel

Tour group had to make a mad rush to the Jiaohe Ruins. I had no idea what the fuss was about as the tour was all in Mandarin. We made the site before the 8:30pm cut off and we were lucky enough to catch the sunset and what looked like a scene from Star Wars. It looked like Tatooine Desert but no Tusken Raiders.

Day 8 Urumqi to Liuyuan (Dunhuang)

First a bullet train ride to Dunhuang and then a reasonably long bus ride to the Mingsha Sand Dune which also contains the Crescent Moon Lake.

After hopping on camel briefly at the flaming mountain, I manage to score a ride on a camel at the Mingsha Sand Dune. It cost 120RMB which includes a 40 min camel ride and the camel’s minder taking photos on your behalf. He didn’t know how to use the Fuji X-Pro 1 and was an exclusive iPhone or Android user.

After the camel ride I decided to hike up a sand dune which took about 10 minutes. It was a bit of exercise for me but was done lugging my camera around so bit of cardio and weights.

The view was quite nice but the odd thing about it all was you were able to see the new somewhat modern city. It would have been nice to see an endless desert.

Next to the Crescent Moon Lake sits an impressively built pagoda.

The camel better not fall as that is some drop, well over 300 camels can do the trek at the same time

Crescent Moon Lake is obscured by the sand

Climbed up the sand dune to get a better view of the Crescent Moon Lake

Day 9 Dunhuang

Dunhuang Global Geopark was the first stop of the day. Another hot hot place but another site hard to believe created by nature. Rock formations were created by the wind and some of the rocks resembled animals or heads if you looked closely or had a wild imagination. One formation apparently looked like a series of warships if you could stand in the right angle with the wild imagination.

Though I had to appreciate the rocks. This is something that took years to create naturally and is probably something will lose its character if it is some how preserved.

They say it looks like a peacock but wait till you see another angle. Dunhuang Global Geopark

I think it looks more like a pig? Dunhuang Global Geopark

Don't miss your bus. Dunhuang Global Geopark

Still looks like a man.  Dunhuang Global Geopark — Still looks like a man. Dunhuang Global Geopark

After seeing the rocks we bus it to Yumenguan Pass. This is also known as the Jade gate as generally all the caravans heading to the Western Regions were carrying jade had to leave through these gates.

Yes it is the desert but they got digging and made water get here Yumenguan Pass

We headed back to the city of Dunhuang, had a quick meal and headed to the night markets. Saw the Aspara monument with her playing the pipa behind her back.

Dried fruits sold at the night markets. Dunhuang

Wood carvings done on the spot at the night markets. Dunhuang

Day 10 Dunhuang - Jiayuguan

Today was definitely a highlight. Going to the Mogao Caves or Grottoes was a site that was created well over 1500 years ago and it still stands today with many caves in remarkable condition. The mountain that houses the saves is about 5 or 6 stories high. So it is impressive how the buddhist monks dug out the caves and built mini shrines. Basically every shrine had art work from floor to ceiling accompanied by statues of buddha and of others. There is a 34.5m meter tall buddha which was available for viewing and it is quite detailed in structure. In total there are 492 grottoes.

Oh due to the fragile nature of the caves, no photography is allowed in order to preserve them for generations to come.

Then off for a 5.5hr bus ride to Jiayuguan

Day 11 Jiayuguan - Xi'an

This morning everyone had a chance to stretch their legs out, it’s as if I needed to stretch them out, i’ve climbed up a mountain to get the overhead view of the Hemu village, I walked up the 1000 plus to see the Fish Watching Pavilion, I walked up the Dunhuang Sand Dunes and now I needed to stroll around the park? However it was a nice day, sun was out and people were playing Sepak Takraw, a combination of soccer and volleyball. A group of elderly playing their instruments and singing. Finally people trying their hand in writing calligraphy on the stone tiled floor.

Retired people now enjoying their lives. Jiayuguan city garden

Practicing Calligraphy. Jiayuguan city garden

After a stroll around the park we headed to Jiayu Pass, this is the first pass of the Great Wall of China on the West end. It is a very impressive site and the majority of the fort is in original condition.

Jiayu Pass, more than 80% of it in it's original state

Impressive tower sits on top of the fort. Jiayu Pass

Part of the Great Wall of China. Jiayu Pass

Apparently those 3 letters in calligraphy are written by the Emperor himself

Next stop Xi’an, rushed to Jiayuguan Airport for the flight to Xi’an

Day 12 Xi'an

Today is an early start and we are off to the Famen Temple. According to Wiki in the Famen Temple a finger bone of the Sakyamuni Buddha is on display, I could see the glass case and the massive golden buddha but again no photos are allowed in certain temples. As I have been told in this tour, no direct photos of the buddha should be taken when housed under a red roof. If you do this buddha will not consider your prayers.

The newly built Famen Temple housing the Buddha's bone from his finger

Famen's Pagoda which has never been neglected, if it partially knocked down it is restored

Unfortunately today we were hit with rain. Our next stop really required the weather to be clear in order to observe the views of the Qianling Tomb. If the weather didn’t play a part I would have been able to see Nipple Hills. No lie according to Wiki “the tumulus mounds on the southern peaks are called Naitoushan or "Nipple Hills", due to their resemblance to the shape of nipples.”!

Headless statues beside the Qianling Tomb

One of the tombs houses Wu Zetian (aka Empress Wu), an Empress and the only known Empress in China. She apparently was a concubine for Emperor Taizong, then when he died she married his 9th son.

It was soon time for an early night, after dinner we went and viewed the Xi’an night markets, it was more filled with food stalls than souvenir stalls. Though again lamb is on serve.

Day 13 Xi'an - Guangzhou
Today is a bitter sweet day, it is the last day of the tour but yet we get to see the Terracotta Army. Gee was it impressive. There are four halls, some of the halls don’t have any soldiers in display, they are still covered, though hall one is the famous one and there are so many on display. There are some rebuilt but can only be rebuilt by their own original pieces, talking about building a puzzle. The rebuilt ones are on display path the back of the hall. Hall 2 is completely covered. Hall 3 was partially uncovered and you could see some horses. We did not venture in to Hall 4.

Restored Terracotta Army soldiers using only the original parts

After some lunch we headed to Huaqing Pool, this housed all the baths for the Emperor.

She is looking for a bath? Model doing a professional shoot at Huaqing Pool

This basically concludes the Silk Road Tour. A few notes, I took the tour that was offered by Sydney’s Skywings Travel (I didn’t get paid by them to add this). The owners accompanied the tour which was nice so we knew we would not get ripped off. Note they don’t join the owners don’t normally join the tours. The tour guides on the tour do not speak English nor Cantonese. So I basically had to use Wiki to get my information.

The positives
- spectacular sites … did I say spectacular sites?

The negatives
- lots of long bus rides but they are required
- lots of internal flights in annoying little airports, the flying is required otherwise it would be a 20 plus day tour with long sleeps on the bus
- if you like lamb, it would be a positive but I don’t and the food if you eat the veggies is quite OK but the food was getting a bit repetitive but I didn’t get sick or food poisoning
- Early morning starts and late night finishes
- squatter toilets.. need to work those hamstrings, the hotels had the “normal” toilets I was brought up on, but the restaurants and public toilets either had squatters or ditches (I kid you not).

I really enjoyed it and if you have ambitions to do the Silk Road go do it!

Here is a break down of the travels.
p - plane
b - bus
t - bullet train
Sydney (p) -> Guangzhou (p) -> Urumqi (p) -> Fuyun (b) -> Burqin (b) -> Jadengyu (b) -> Hemu (b) -> Jadengyu (b) -> Kanas (p) -> Urumqi (b) -> Tulufanbei (t) -> Liuyuannan (b) -> Jiuquan (b) -> Yumen pass (b) -> Jiayuguan (p) -> Xian (p) -> Guangzhou (b) -> Zhongshan (b) -> Guangzhou (p) -> Sydney

All photos done using my Fuji X-Pro 1. I predominantly used the 23mm f/1.4. I did use the 14mm f/2.8 for a couple of shots with the band playing music, and used the 8mm Samyang f/2.8 for the Terracotta Army in Hall 1, some shots for reach I used the 56mm f/1.2 in Hall 3.

Siem Reap in 3 Days - Day 3

March 1, 2016

Today is pretty much my final day of roaming Siem Reap as I've got a mid morning flight out of here and the process takes about 3 hours, so I'm trying to think of what to do on my last day to make it a memorable trip. My original intention was to go play golf at either the hotel's course or the Nick Faldo course. Both have hosted Asia PGA tournaments but I only wanted to get half a round in so I could chill around the hotel pool. I've booked the Phare, the Cambodian Circus in the evening at 8pm.

I've decided to go the cheap option and go take a tuk tuk out to the water village, Tonie Sap Lake. This was around a 4 hour trip so another tuk tuk ride for 10 USD. It would cost another 23 USD because I was a single passenger on the boat ride for the cruise around the lake. Mind you this was compared to half a golf round costing me about 150USD for 9 holes, clubs and cart hire which included a caddy.

I was told it would take about 20 minutes from the hotel to Tonie Sap Lake. It was an interesting yet bumpy ride on the tuk tuk. I saw how people lived away from the city, and touristy areas. Roads were being repaired and relaid etc.

Many kids were on their way to school, I believe. The reason I am not so sure was that school must start late as I left the hotel after 9am. I don't believe they were truanting.

So here are the pics of the day

Kids double on a bike to get to school. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

Houses along the river on the way to Tonie Sap Lake. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

Happy kids walking to school. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

After being dropped off by my tuk tuk driver, I went in to the terminal to grab a boat. I paid my 23USD and was asked to head to the pier, where there were a stack of boats waiting for tourists. I was taken around by a set of brothers who were doing these tours part time. They are fisherman but the fishing season has finished. The Cambodian government prevents mass fishing during the dry season to allow the fish population to grow again. Most Cambodians in the area have the local food which as the tour guide on the boat told me is fish paste better known as Amok. I tried it in the evening and all I can say is I'd rather stick to the Khmer curries instead. The two fisherman brothers who took me around claimed that they were locals. The younger brother who was also the guide spoke very good English.

There is one catch to these tours. Since the water is low in the dry season, the boats you are taken to the village on are too big to navigate around the village, you can only see the outskirts. You get taken a 1/3 of the way there and you would need to change into a smaller boat. Basically all the fisherman rent out there smaller boats so you can go to the village. This will cost you another 20USD. I decided against taking the smaller boats.

One tip, close your mouth when on the boat and if you choose to talk do not talk outside the window. Otherwise you will get your free Tonie Sap Lake coffee in your mouth! The brown water will just cover your mouth if you are not careful

First stop was the orphaned children from a recent typhoon that ripped through Vietnam. The kids are taken here and are fed rice. They go to school here, sleep here and play here. It is quite a sad place to go to, but some kids are smiling and that … — First stop was the orphaned children from a recent typhoon that ripped through Vietnam. The kids are taken here and are fed rice. They go to school here, sleep here and play here. It is quite a sad place to go to, but some kids are smiling and that gives you some comfort. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

Some kids after their lunch are at the books. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

The fresh water barrel. No back wash allowed here that is for sure. The barrel contains fresh clean drinking water that they share, you can see here there are bowls to scoop the water and drink from. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

Some kids just want to wander around on the boat in their lunch break. He is waiting his turn to go and have some fun. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

These kids are taking a ride on the boat before school starts again. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

I left the school, and we headed to get closer to the houses in the village area, but before heading there we stopped at a convenient store in the lake and as the guide said it is a 7 eleven on the water. The guide bought some beers to share. The local Angkor brew.

The convenient store in Tonie Sap Lake. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

This is as close as I got to the water village, maybe I should have spent the extra 20 USD to go inside, but in all honesty I was thinking about the huge pool in the hotel rather than this coffee coloured water at this stage. Fuji X-Pro 1, 85mm f/1.… — This is as close as I got to the water village, maybe I should have spent the extra 20 USD to go inside, but in all honesty I was thinking about the huge pool in the hotel rather than this coffee coloured water at this stage. Fuji X-Pro 1, 85mm f/1.2 R

The life of a fisherman on his long break, resting up in a hammock. Fuji X-Pro 1, 85mm f/1.2 R

The rumor has it that all the crocodiles were taken and skinned to sell.  There are a few crocs on this float. It is a little sad to see, the crocs barely move and obviously some tourists get annoyed and throw beer cans at them. I'm just glad t… — The rumor has it that all the crocodiles were taken and skinned to sell. There are a few crocs on this float. It is a little sad to see, the crocs barely move and obviously some tourists get annoyed and throw beer cans at them. I'm just glad there are no crocs in the lake anymore as kids play and bath in the lake. Fuji X-Pro 1, 85mm f/1.2 R

Local fisherman boat, he is just transporting things around to get some pay. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

The guide said that this guy was allowed to fish in this shallow part of the lake. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

After my lake tour, it was time to head for some lunch. I decided to try Paris Saigon. I was thinking anything that had broth and was cooked hot would be safe for my weak stomach to eat and those who know me, know that I must have pho once a week LOL. So since Cambodia is so close to Vietnam, I was hoping to have some authentic pho.

The food was nice here and I decided to make my way to Pub Street in the day. It was about a 10 minute walk in the heat from the restaurant. Pub Street is in the mix of the Old Market and Night Market. I couldn't find this last night so I decided to wander more. The key is to just follow the young westerners as that's where they all head to for a feed and a beer. It didn't take me long to find it. I decided I'm pretty tired of lugging my Leica M6 around so I pulled out and walked around and did some street shots. They are not ready yet so that is why you can not see them here.

After about 1.5 hours of wandering and making sure I finished a full roll of film, I tried to find the Blue Pumpkin, this is a dessert shop where you can sit up on sofas and relax with your feet up. I managed to stumble and find it. Things were harder for me to find as I didn't have a SIM card for Cambodia so no google maps for me. Grabbed myself a dark chocolate ice cream on a cone and it was a pleasant surprise. Just what the doctor ordered.

Took a few more shots and finished the roll of film, grabbed a tuk tuk back to the hotel. I had let my tuk tuk driver go earlier at lunch so this ride was not within the 10 USD, but from Pub Street I knew it was 2 USD back to the hotel. How you may ask, I realized how close I was to Pub Street when I bumped in to last nights dinner spot, Khmer Kitchen Restaurant!

So off to the pool for some R&R whilst sipping on my Pina Colada. Much better than my Bloody Mary on my first day and a tick above the lychee cocktail from yesterday. I spent around 2 hours around and in the pool. Pretty awesome, as the pool is not heated but the water temperature is very nice.

As the circus was in the outskirts of town, it was hard to get a tuk tuk to take me to dinner somewhere on the way and then take me to the Phare circus then wait for me and take me back. I had dinner at the hotel. I tried the Amok dish at the hotel thinking it should be safe to try here. It really was not my cup of tea. It was quite bland and apart from the prawns that accompanied the dish I did not think it was that special.

After dinner off I went on the tuk tuk, and with my luck the tuk tuk drove past the Red Crab Seafood restaurant. This was a place in TripAdvisor with reasonable reviews. Oh well.. It took about 20 minutes to get to the circus.

I got the concierge to book me a ticket on the first day of my arrival in Siem Reap. There are 3 ticket categories, A seats 40 USD, B seats 25 USD and C seats 15 USD. The tent can sit around 250 people I dare say. You all squeeze in for an hour of entertainment. The A seats are generally taken by tour groups so if you want that and your special gift that accompanies your A class seat book it early. I missed out and I got a B seat. It is very much best in first dressed in the B and C seating classes. Where by the earlier you get in the better seat you will get. I came and I managed to get an OK seat. i was about 40 minutes early. My seat was not front on but not too far off center. C seat have a view from the sides.

Here are some pics of the circus.

Hmm balancing act. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

A bit of acrobatics. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

Some death defying stunts. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

Brilliant acrobatics really. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

A it of brute strength. Fuji X-Pro 1, 23mm f/1.4

I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by the Phare Circus. It is a budget kind of Cirque du Soleil. It is a mix of comedy, acrobatics and music. The only thing that is missing are the fancy costumes. It was a pretty funny 1 hour a show, and if you are in Siem Reap and do not want to get trashed at Pub Street, go check out the Phare Circus.

Managed to find my tuk tuk driver and it was time to head home and prepare to pack for the early morning check out of the hotel.

The Film Experiment

July 2, 2014

Everyone goes through phases in life and well it's time for me to have a go and use a film camera. Whilst I am at it why not just go for manual focus and pick up a Leica. If I am going to do it properly (well to some purists) this is the way to do it. One BIG note, and that is I am not using an all Leica kit !! Using a Leica M6 that comes with TTL (ok that is cheating a little) and a Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 pancake lens. I couldn't afford a Summicron and it will take me some time to be able to afford one.

Being a person who has only ever used AF, manual focus is something that is very very foreign to myself. Not only using a manual focusing camera, but to make things more exciting a classic range finder, in the Leica M6. Most people have said using these cameras for any kind if photography has slowed them down and allowed them to compose and frame much better shots than using the new razzle dazzle equipment. I would say it has definitely slowed me down but I do not think for the better at the moment.

I have decided to try out a few films and I got a film case from Japan Camera Hunter with a big variety of films, there are many interesting ones in the set and it is definitely like a box of chocolates. I'm sticking with shooting in ISO 400 film and here are some samples from Fuji's Superior T-Max 400, Kodak Portra 400 and Kodak Tri-X 400.

My apologies, I do not have a film scanner and the photos are not of the highest quality in terms of resolution.

Kodak - Portra 400 ... cannot afford two bodies and waste half a roll but this is Portra with back and white in post

Kodak - Portra 400, black and white conversion